Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Lots of fresh, spring-like apple aromas with appealing lily-of-the-valley and bluebell floral scents, almost disconcerting in its immediacy. I feel pitched into an April glade! Here, rather dryer and shorter, alas. Great nose, so I am trying to find some way to bring the palate score up to line, but I can’t quite do it: this just doesn’t have the dimension or depth of the best. 13

Simon Larkin : Comparatively deep appearance. Notes of the exotic on the nose, really ripe apple - almost like cooking-apple skin - as well as more fragrant peachy notes. Fine palate, quite taut with a wealth of pure, well-presented fruit. Cooler climate in style, mouthwatering with a distinctly mineral quality. The finish suggests fresh green apple juice over slate. Very finely poised, with well-wound acidity. A fine, lingering wine. 16.5

Alexander Scott: A change of character here - a smoky dimension on the nose, with a citrus undertow: these are traits that suggest Hochheim to me. Not such an aggressive punch on the attack, but much longer sustain on the palate than the Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg; it feels more natural. Savoury, balanced and long, with noticeable mineral extract on the finish. Fine wine. 16.5