Stephen Brook: Muted waxy apricot nose. Quite rich, plump, easy-going; not that concentrated; ripe stone fruits; perky acidity adds a citric tone. Attractive medium-bodied wine for drinking young, with ample sweet fruit and a graceful finish. 16

Jancis Robinson: Deep colour. Very dense and exciting. Deep, exotic, almost over the top. Explosive! Gunpowder. Smoky, off-dry. Quite open and very big. Masses of alcohol. Good racy green acidity. The acidity convinces me to give it a high mark. 16.5

Alexander Scott: Altogether similar to the Westhofen Morstein, though perhaps not quite as lively on the mid-palate. This sort of thing is, however, what might turn more people on to dry German Riesl ing when mature. Give it at least five years - and for God's sake, decant it. 16.5