Stephen Brook: Rich, ripe apricot nose. Plump, rounded, sleek; has a touch more sweetness than I'd expect from a dry wine but has some minerality, too, and a sherbetty aftertaste to keep it lively on t he palate. Good fruit if not a great deal of perso nality. Pleasant rather than remar kable. 15

Jancis Robinson: Pale. Relatively well mannered and low -key, relative to the Keller Dalshei m Hubacker and Westhofen Morstein. Loose, lemon-cream effect. Lots of ripe fruit here and pretty well balanced. Less dramatic than the other Keller wines, though. Still slightly chewy. The effect is relatively dry. 16

Alexander Scott: Similar again to the Westhofen Morstein and Dalsheim Hubacker. Very good. Not much more to say really, though I think this one has perhaps the most zing of the three. Very backward, maybe a ten-year wine. 17