Stephen Brook: Discreet citric nose. a touch leesy. Medium-bodied, silky, quite concentrated but lacks some flair and raciness. Indeed, it's a touch flabby. Bland, with only moderate length. 12.5

Jancis Robinson: Very pale and rather too heady, almost as though there's a dollop of Viognier in here! Then on the palate the acidity is extremely marked. Altogether a rather jagged package for the moment, including pronounced chew. Not a standout now... 13

Alexander Scott: Slightly more reticent on the nose than the Deidesheimer Kalkofen. but recognisably the same register. Discreetly aristocratic. Perhaps an even greater purity. Time will tell. Give it at least five years. 17.5