Andrew Jefford: Quite full gold. Subtle, complex, beguiling: rich, crystallised pear scents mingled with delicate violet. Soft yet intense, with a huge weight of pressed fruit bearing down on the palate. Long, vivid, tangy lemon and mango. This is a good example of a wine that seems to need the creaminess of lees to balance its weight of intense fruit, though the tradition in the past (based on perhaps cooler summers) may not lead wine growers towards these kind of experiments. Impressive and hugely intense - almost painfully intense - with a kind of fruited ache after you swallow. Hard to score. The concentration of flavour possibly deserves a higher score, but can you drink it with pleasure? 17

Simon Larkin : Slightly deeper appearance, with honeyed exotic nuances on the nose. Tangy, overripe characters evident on the palate with poorly integrated acidity. Sweet edge to the fruit, but again marked grapefruit pith quality on the finish. Slightly disjointed nature, but otherwise sound. 12

Alexander Scott: Slightly deeper colour, more gold, and a correspondingly more exotic nose, yet without overripeness. Super development of flavour on the palate, rich and warm yet underpinned with a surprisingly lively acidity (one feels some of this must have been added, but it doesn’t taste disjointed). Lovely wine. 17.5