Simon Field: A good old-fashioned Vintage Port - hedgerow nose and hints of soot, then a fiercely austere palate with fairly astringent tannins and plenty of black fruit. A rude and slightly petulant beast - not entirely unwelcome in this gathering. 14.5

Richard Mayson: Spicy, dusty nose suggests ripe tannins, and there is an unusual touch of citrus and ripe tropical fruit. Very soft, fleshy and sweet initially, with ripe, slightly gritty tannins rising in the mouth. Balanced, if a little short compared to some of its peers. 14

Jancis Robinson: Very deep purple - shiny and vibrant. Low-key, rather briary, autumnal nose. Some prunes. Rather bold and confident. Dry finish but lots of fresh, ripe fruit in the middle. Finish and tannins perhaps a little too drying. 13