Gerard Basset: Very shiny silver-yellow. Quite mineral but a touch one-dimensional with a lot of citrus fruit. Crisp and quite lean. Medium finish. 13.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: W axy nose, complex. Quite dry, full flavour, rustic. Still reserved and not quite ready. Finish is long and satisfying. Needs food. 14.5

Roy Richards: Classic nose, tending to petrole already. Sweetish, which belies the palate - austere and lacking any gesture towards charm. One for the masochists. 11