Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A generous wine with plenty of colour, but the sample we tasted lacked the precise aromas and generosity of texture that would place it among the top five – which are in truly Olympic shape this year. 15

Margaret Rand: Roasted pruney fruit and a powerful finish – very, very long. The fruit is dense, but with that transparency that is so fascinating. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, raw blackcurrant and mineral nose. Rich, middleweight wine, with a fine core of fruit behind a firm tannin and fresh acidity. Elegant, mineral-backed, raw blackcurrant/cassis Cabernet flavours. A Pauillac firmness of frame, but velvety within, without excess astringency and with real complexity of flavour. Slightly severe, but a good Duhart – and a good mid- to long-term prospect. 15.5/16