Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Beautifully oaked, with a very distinctive nose showing tasteful traces of soot and spice, plus noble, perfectly ripe and perfectly balanced tannins of lasting persistence. One of the best if not the most accomplished red wine to come out of the Cathiard era. The 2004 will go down as another great vintage in this sector. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Stylish, long and elegant. The palate is closed at the moment, but the finish is beautifully perfumed. 17

Michael Schuster: Redcurrant and new-oak nose. Supple, middleweight wine with a light tannin. Nice, ripe, oak-tinged, juicy fruit of moderate complexity and good, vivid length. Well-managed, easy, fruity appeal. 15.5