Alison Buchanan: Deeply coloured, this has a slightly medicinal cough-drop nose, some iodine and hot earth completing the ensemble. The palate is initially silky, with dry tannins cutting through on the mid-palate, but the fruit rallies to emerge with a flourish of exotic perfume and old leather. Attractive, though the tannins still have the upper hand. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Red. Delicate, dried rose-petal style, subtle. Nice, musky fruit, good balance. Length starts to fade but is still there. Pleasant finish. 16

Jeremy Watson: Good colour and firm aromas of red fruits, with strong oak tannins. Rather blunt in the mouth, and one suspects this wine is probably ‘resting’. Indeed, maybe this is true of some of the other ’95 gran reservas. 16