Alison Buchanan: This is less intensely coloured than the majority. The nose is a little insipid, with some blueberries and black-cherry notes but rather lacking focus. The palate is more controlled, silky textured with dark fruit and spice to the fore. Lacks spark. 14

Jancis Robinson: Ruby. Slightly cheesy, not very fresh. Good, delicious glugging wine in the joven style. Fairly simple but very pleasant. 14

Jeremy Watson: Light brick colour, with lovely soft aromas and gentle flavours that are very rewarding. There is an element of repetitiveness with these high-extract wines, and it becomes a search for those that are very special. This is in the pack but good nonetheless. 16