Alison Buchanan: Black cherry in colour, this is very youthful in appearance. The nose offers Eccles cakes – dark, sweet fruit and sugared-pastry notes. The palate is plump and supple, black fruit supported almost imperceptibly by very ripe tannins. Concentrated, supple and generous, it nonetheless lacks a wee bit of lift and focus. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Red, hint of garnet. Dark, subtle, warm fruit, hint of boot polish. Gentle, clean, mature fruit, just dominated by the austere element, though not unpleasantly so. Warm, spicy length. Good. 16

Jeremy Watson: Flabby and gently oxidising. Disagreeable to me. 7