Alison Buchanan: Buttered toast again here, but with some hints of marmalade to give some citrus contrast. Dull on the palate though – just woody and blousey and with intermittent flashes of something not wholly clean. Quite short – except for wood. Bit of a tart really. 12

Nicolas Belfrage: Classic Chardonnay nose, biscuity creamy and yeasty. Good acidity and well-measured oak. Should have a good life ahead, but in the end it suffers from a certain anonymity, resembling many fine Chardies the world over. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Lots of mealy, smoky, Burgundian barrel-ferment character on the nose. This is a bit of a copycat Meursault, and it suffers from a phenolic hardness to the texture, but it’s certainly an accomplished and well-balanced wine. There’s concentration and style here. 16.5