Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6; bright. Honeyed, candied-fruit style on both nose and palate, with very good acidity balancing what is really a tremendously rich sweet palate made up of various layers of flavor. 16.5

Michael Edwards: Chestnut gold, like a good Cognac color. Sweet preserved fruits and acidity in fine harmony on the nose, confirmed in an harmonious, poised mouthfeel. Pleasure. 16

Jancis Robinson: Pale, shaded, healthy-looking greenish orange. Complex, long-aged nose, with all the many elements in balance. Sweet start and then a bit of rancio, finishing clean, tart, and dry. Pretty archetypal, even if not the richest. A very lively and refreshing style. Wonderfully neat. Not showy. Just not the most complex. Drink 2006–18. 17

Franco Ziliani: Golden-amber color; the nose is very fresh, lively, elegant, with a surprising flowery side, dried orange, saffron, almond, and just a little excess of alcohol. Very balanced on the palate, sweet but not too much, fresh, salty, with good acidity and just a little bitter almond and orange on the finish. 16