Alison Buchanan: Lovely, rich yellow-gold in colour, this could appear oxidised, yet it has an attractive fruit-salad nose with an even more attractive central focus. Honey rich and silky with warm spiced-fruit and almond notes, this is Soave in drag – attractive, though. Commercially and conceptually difficult, I am sure. Still needs a bit more electric oomph on the acidity front. Too languid and blowsy, but intriguing. 14.5

Nicolas Belfrage: Light, cold colour, atypical. Heavy nose and palate, misses the point of Soave. A one-glass-only wine. More impressive than drinkable. 13

Alex Hunt: Unpromising nose – nutty and oxidative – then rather better on entry, with some richness and character; then returns to the nutty phase on the finish. A conundrum. 13