Alison Buchanan: Hoot toots, maun. Good grief, what a nose! Very cheesy. There is fruit there, but the stinkiness is somewhat alarming. Palate is flabby: vaguely apple-based fruit salad, but as a fruit salad it needs some citrus or other acid contrast, and it just ain’t there. Okay, certainly, but… 11

Nicolas Belfrage: Yellow straw. Walnut and fruit salad on nose. Firm acid-fruit balance on palate, with a hint of grasso. Fresh, good drinking, but like all the Tocais, not anywhere near world-class. 14

Alex Hunt: Some stinky reduced character on the nose. Once this has blown off, there’s not a lot else! In contrast to the nose, the palate is a bit tired. Soft and complete, but feels like it has seen better, more vigorous days. Still, it’s quite elegant and enjoyable. 13.5