Alison Buchanan: This has an attractive nose: apple and pear tarte tatin and pain au raisin. Definite crème patissier notes on the palate, but sharper focus than many of the Chardonnays. Buttery finish. Fat. 11

Nicolas Belfrage: Medium straw yellow. Clean, uneventful nose. Acid a little too sharp, but good fruit behind. Ends a bit hard. 14

Alex Hunt: Restrained barrel-ferment aromas. This tastes of neutral grapes subjected to skilled winemaking. Classily bland, in other words. 12