Bruce Schoenfeld: There’s only 5% less Grechetto here than in the 1996, yet the Chardonnay attributes are fully dominant— from the intense nose that seems more New World than European, to a rich, mouthcoating flavor with notes of butter and vanilla. It’s a huskier, less-refined wine than the ’96—and not merely because it’s a decade younger—but it is still nicely balanced and pleasurable enough in its way. 15