Alison Buchanan: Essence of tropical fruit salad, with, bizarrely, hints of palm hearts/white asparagus. Palate perhaps reflects this weird combination… certainly in its being weird. Blowsy, vaguely grubby and totally devoid of structure. Yuck. 2

Nicolas Belfrage: Light gold. Oaky and perfumed on palate. Sweet heavy palate that, again, misses the point. 13.5

Alex Hunt: The flavour is just starting to fall apart, and the texture is becoming stringy. There’s concentration and balance here, but I suspect a younger bottle would be better. 11