Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Light but stylish nose of lime, mint, apricot. Medium- bodied, rounded, supple, though lacks some concentration and vigour. Attractive fruit but slack and lacking in structure and weight. Little minerality. Drink soon. Medium length. 15

Simon Field: A nose that is both ripe and restrained, qualities that are carried on to the palate. A broad and satisfactory mouthfeel, with a generous texture and yet a backbone of acidity to ensure structural hegemony. 17

Roy Richards: More youthful, with bright fruit. Some botrytis – and all this on the palate, too, with a peppery finish. Varietal. Lacks the density and length of a 2001. 16