Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Very rich nose of peach, beeswax – perfectly healthy. Very rich, full-bodied, plump but not heavy. Concentrated, spicy, mineral, still going strong, with a firm, stony aftertaste. Robust, classic Veltliner. Good length. 18.5

Roy Richards: The colours of the 1997 Grüner Veltliners are paler than the 2000s! Mature nose, some pepper coming through. A little uncouth, classified above its weight. A vegetal finish. 14