Michel Bettane: Pale colour; small bubbles. Tart, oxidised nose but vinous and characterful. Finishes on a bitter, even metallic note. 13

Simon Larkin : Slightly more golden hue than any of the others in this flight. Aromas of toasty, citrus fruit. Seems overly chilled, but good rich qualities still come through, with a pleasing weight and a textural mousse. Equally fine persistence. A complex example, this suggests that considerable development is a prerequisite. 16

Anthony Rose: Good, healthy yellow-gold. Possible oak fermentation, with vanilla on the nose. A hint of toffee apple, rich and full-flavoured. Nice, sweetly ripe, baked apple and clove-like fruit with a good, creamy, mouth-filling mousse and rich savoury balance to it in traditional, gout anglais style. 15