Michel Bettane: Very pale colour; ordinary sort of nose. Not much taste, fairly well balanced but finishes short. 12

Simon Larkin : Pale lemon-gold appearance. Fine bead, too. Fresh, clean bready aromas. Creamy, clean and very pure in nature. Taut and lean, too, with a slightly bizarre floral quality. Aggressive mousse and some angular qualities. Perhaps in need of reassessment down the line, since this is not yet shining. 13

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow -gold. Fresh, inviting, almondy, buttery, pineapple-citrus aromas, with a hint of digestive biscuit. Good fruit richness, nice, creamy-textured mousse; mouth-filling fruit with good flavours and clean, fresh acidity, with an elegantly dry finish. Still very youthful, with plenty of time to go. Classy fizz. 17