Michel Bettane: Light golden colour, tiny bubbles. Notes of apples plus biscuity flavours and slight autolysis. Neat, refreshing and easy to drink, but a bit vulgar, with hints of volatile acidity. Medium length. 12

Simon Larkin : Pale-lemon appearance; strong bead. Lively, zesty aromas, gently autolytic. Well-poised fruit, with a lively textural mousse and almost tangy aspects of ripe citrus fruit. Well-expressed, lees-like background notes, too. Fresh and vibrant, and suggestive of low dosage as the race comes to the fore. A clean and appealing style. 12.5

Anthony Rose: Pale gold, persistent mousse. A ttractive blanc de blancs Chardonnay nose with undertones of vanilla and honey, and good, rich Chardonnay fruitiness. Clean, well-made, lightly toasty, with appealing mid -palate weight and depth of flavour and fresh acidity balancing the fruit nicely. An elegant, well put-together fizz; complete. 15