Michael Edwards: Slightly softer feel and touch; less mineral, more licorice, a signal of maturity. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; a fine, steady mousse. Nutty, buttery; the “country maid” style of blanc de blancs. Relatively concentrated, with a full frontal, broad-beamed style, but plenty of ground stone beneath. I like this: relaxed and affable, but with some secondary marrow to it; satisfying and sustained. The fruit perfumes the finish, too. Just a hint of sherbet, but not enough to spoil the palate in any way. 15

Tom Stevenson: A brilliant balance between high acids, great energy, and finesse of fruit. Can easily be drunk now but will age gracefully over the long term. 18