Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Stylishly harmonious nose with finely detailed, sweet, fruitiness; underlying toasty complexity; and heaps of healthy fruit. Fresh and vibrant, a super-succulent, intense palate with lovely acid line. Great structure. Dry, but takes it very well. Some woody notes and flirtations with oxidation, but manages it all. An interesting, soulful Champagne. 18

Andrew Jefford: Bright lemon-gold. Fresh, clean, full of lemon elegance, and has some secondary stony complexities, too. An excellent aromatic profile. Very intense, concentrated, mouthwatering, searching and long; a lemon explosion, almost. There is damp chalk behind, but the primary starburst is so strong that you barely notice it. Very exciting vineyard Champagne from a fine site. Vinous length carries the finish, and there are more lemony perfumes to get you pouring the next glass after you have swallowed. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Fresh, sumptuous fruit supported by a pincushion mousse. Not the longest or most intense wine of the tasting, but one of the better. 17