Simon Field: Strong, robust, evolving colour, and a slightly foursquare nose: one would have expected it to be a little more forthcoming after all this time. A bit burnt, perhaps. The palate has weight, a density of black fruit and notes of tar and liquorice. From the masculine camp, a wine that may well develop, but possibly in a minor key? 17

Andrew Jefford: with the Fonseca, this is one of the deepest colours of the flight. A big aromatic repertoire here, with the gently simmered fruits of maturity lent depth and architecture by herbs, toffee and chocolate: just what you want from a 1970 today. A lovely wine but at full repose now, in the tranquillity of twilight. Vivid, soft and full, perhaps a little less concentrated than the aromatic architecture suggested, though the seamless grace of the flavours more than compensates. Lovely textures are still lingering, with palpable, though now fully soft, tannins. An entrancing finish, in which the fresh fruits of youth seem to make a spectral, perfumed reappearance. 18

Richard Mayson: Very good deep-garnet centre, still looking remarkably youthful right to the rim. Withdrawn on the nose, but the underlying intensity is evident. Quite rich, sweet and powerful. Plenty of ripe plummy fruit backed by ripe tannins, which exploded on the finish. This wine is fabulous now but will be even better in five years and has 20-30 years of life ahead of it after that. 19.5