Stephen Brook: Firm nose, pears, some minerality. Very sweet, upfront fruitiness, apples and pears rather than citrus; quite concentrated but rather obvious and one-dimensional, lacks excitement and finesse. Quite good length. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale water-gold. Buckets of free sulphur in here, alas, so at this stage it makes for rather ungrateful sniffing. Very sweet and rich, and therefore well above its Pradikat. There is decent orange acidity to balance the sugars, but it lacks a sense of tautness and intensity to pull it all together. Nonetheless, this is a good, forceful wine, with plenty of presence that will reward drinking in a few years, once the free sulphur has cleared and allowed a genuinely appealing aromatic profile to develop. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Cool and sleek on the nose, with lovely satin texture on the palate but no shortage of acidity. Currant bush aromas. Still quite a bit of gas dissolved in the wine. Far from the sweetest. Great balance. Drink 2007-15. 16