Tim Atkin : Attractive, developed colour. Very seductive, mature nose, essence of WA. Lovely, silky tannins, good fruit concentration, but with an underlying elegance and freshness to the wine. This is palate-caressing stuff, with sweet fruit flavours, lovely focus and considerable palate length. 18

Oz Clarke: Good red, on the turn. Ah, a mature bouquet - and actually a cool-climate one! Lead pencil and a little blackcurrant leaf and rather more blackcurrant fruit. On the palate - very nice. Eight years has sweetened, softened and broadened this wine. It does have a green streak - that lead pencil and blackcurrant leaf would have tasted almost vegetal at two years old. But it also has a lovely, rather restrained yet ripe blackcurrant fruit - not 'in yer face’ cassis, just gentle, beguiling and delightful low-key blackcurrant. This is most attractive mature Cabernet, just entering its pomp, but balanced enough to age for years yet. This wine has nothing to do with Napa and a good deal to do with Pauillacs and St-Juliens of the era before 1982 changed the claret world for ever. 18