Tim Atkin : Still youthful colour for a 1996. Developed if a little overoaked on the nose. Fading on the palate, although there are some nice, peppery, Rhone-like qualities in evidence. Dry, minty finish. Not much varietal character. 14

Oz Clarke: Good red, hardly showing age. Nose not distinct, but fair. The palate is also fair. It is a little lumpen. No single feature really lights up the palate. The fruit is not quite ripe, although a rather Shiraz-like pepper adds an attractive perfumed dimension to it. It’s a good, full but not thrilling mid-weight red. Balanced, savoury; a good drink. 16

Michael Schuster: Dark, brick-rimmed red; scented, minerally, persistent and fine to smell; rich, well-balanced, fairly concentrated medium-full wine with a fresh acidity and fine dry tannin. Long, even, savoury, complex palate, slightly dry-edged, but very good and full of promise. 17