Michael Schuster: Dense, finely earthy nose; rich, dense, fairly full-bodied wine with a very refined tannin; long, close-knit, fleshy core, with a very seductive combination of fruit and mineral flavours and excellent persistence. Compact, elegant Graves, not showy but impressive. 17+

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great colour and a fine, powerful red-berry nose, but somewhat less full and ‘colossal’ than the Haut-Brion, due to more refined tannins and layered fruit flavours. Long, terrifically classy aromatic finish. 17