Simon Larkin : Restrained, closed aromatics. The palate shows volume and intensity with finely grained tannins and vibrant acidity. There is an ample core to this wine, though its stature exceeds this. Broad-shouldered, this is a masculine effort that requires patience and could currently be termed too assertive. There is no doubting what lies beneath, but the core is tough to access. A traditional style, built to last, should be in to its stride seven to eight years down the line, when it could exceed this score. 16.5

Nicolas Belfrage: Correct in terms of acidity and tannins, very '96, but the astringency rules, and it seems unlikely that it will ever come out. Surprising, after the success of the previous two from the same producer. 14