Simon Larkin : Deep, almost opaque. Vanillin elements largely overpower the aromas of fruit, though notes of sweet cherry are still revealed. This wine is modernist in style, with drying tannins cutting short a promising finish. Lacks some flesh, though may come good with time. 15

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep colour, but not so deep as the '96. Suspicious? Attractive aromas more related to fruit than flower. Ripe plumy fruit, not soupy, with reasonable structure for a '97, but falls away a bit at the back. Good, but without inspiration. 14