Nicolas Belfrage: Black, impenetrable. Smells mainly of oak. Concentrated fruit jelly on palate, not unlike a southern Rhône. Coffee grounds and dark chocolate combine with sour cherry, a bit like Green & Black’s [organic chocolate]. Good wine, perhaps needs time. Drink from 2014. 12

Roy Richards Very dark. Nose is mute: a big presence in the mouth, this is a wine with serious pretensions. I think it will go all the way, but the extraction worries me a bit. Atypical. 14

Franco Ziliani: Very deep, intense color. The nose is rich, intense with ripe fruit, some animal leathery and peppery notes, and a wild character. Good richness on the palate with a good tannic structure but lacks a little complexity. Well-made, round, soft, savory, but without the “thrill” of a great Brunello. 14.5