John Livingstone-Learmonth: Still purple in the robe. Initially it has a stewed, rather reductive nose—the aroma is a little “high” and obscure—suggesting fruit gums, not that noble. After two hours, the bouquet becomes clearer, with good grip and plenty in it—smoky and peppery, too. The palate shows reserved, spiced, mulled fruit with lots of live sinew. Red fruits emerge toward the finish—I sense a Bessards imprint late on, where there is good granite tension. This has a lot of character, and is clearly a hand-madewine. A coiled animal waiting to pounce now. More skittish than the 1999, and its length is good. The fruit is in a sweet spot today. Parisian rather than Lyonnais wine. 2011–12 onward for its second phase. 2026-28. ***** (17–18.5)