Stephen Brook: Exotic fruit on the nose, quite tropical, though also with apricot and even quince aromas. It shows some finesse and charm. Medium-bodied, this is a graceful wine, not quite with the weight of fruit one expects from Hermitage, but with a sleek texture and a fine balance. It also seems mature. It’s not an explosive style, but it’s harmonious and would work better with food than the other Hermitages here. Moderate length and probably not for long keeping. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Beautiful golden/pale amber, this presents ripe, golden stone fruit on the nose, toasted notes, and hints of warm pastry. The palate is opulent but harmonious, rich expansive fruit given focus through minerality and natural acidity. Leesy and generous, rather decadent, and rich enough to be filling, with buttered nuts, honey, and caramel notes. Hedonistic enough for the here and now with white meat or cheese. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Vivid in color, this doesn’t look its age, and it’s equally fresh on the nose, with an enticing complex character blending notes of spicy oak, stone fruits, and honey, and following through to a remarkable fresh and vigorous dried-fruit and truffley palate for a wine of nearly a decade in age; it’s powerful and intensely flavored, with excellent concentration of fruit flavor and real complexity18