John Livingstone-Learmonth: More red in its robe than the 1991, with a little pale-pink on the top rim. The bouquet is gaining a sweet nature, a sort of earthy, above all stewed fruit aroma that is broad and also pretty live. Has a little late burst of peppery tannin, a rigor that is appealing. A good and round palate, similar to the 1999—red fruits to the fore, maybe plums. Has a lot of length and life, and a fragrant rose-hip quality on the palate, and great delicacy toward the finish. Beau, live wine, faults and all, since it is less “clean” than the 1995, say, and comes more from the old school of winemaking. Some bottles may be better than this one. 2019–23. ***** (17–18.5)