Stephen Brook: Heady, musky nose: quite exotic fruit— mango, as well as pear. Undoubtedly rich, this is also rather heavy, but the density of fruit is impressive. This has power and spice and some drive on the palate, but it’s a bit overbearing and lacking in nuance. This would be good with game, partridge rather than grouse, but may be a bit overbearing for even the richest of sauces. The finish is a bit leaden and abrupt and hardly leaves the palate refreshed. 15.5

Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, this presents hints of almond on the nose, allied to stone fruit. Luscious and ripe, succulent; the palate mirrors the aromatics presented by the nose. This is an essentially appetizing wine, true to the variety and the place, and it cries out for a complementary dish—a useful foil for those difficult ingredients, spice and smoke, with a lingering sweetness that would also be cheese-friendly and a bright acidity to counter15

Anthony Rose: This is pleasant, fresh, and appley on the nose, albeit rather distinct as to varietal character; equally, it’s crisp and refreshingly appley on the palate, with just a touch of underlying spiciness and honey. Nicely balanced and opulent, finishing with a touch of honey and nice appley bite. 15.5