Stephen Brook: Hefty tropical-fruit nose, a long way from classic, fresh, apéritif-style Alsace Muscat. Fat and creamy, this is also a bit heavy, despite a light touch of acidity to perk it up slightly. This crawls along the floor like a fat baby, and though impressive in its weight and density, it also shows some flab. Not easy with food, either. Fairly short14

Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, this exudes a very singular Muscat grapey sweetness, with an attractive focus. Super-ripe golden fruit to the fore, this is luscious and generous, with a mineral dimension that keeps the boat afloat, though taken to the limits. The finish is long, honeyed, and nutty—poised and layered15

Anthony Rose: There’s some ginger spice and underlying floral characters on the nose, a bone-dry, almost austere kind of fruit belying the more promising floral sweetness of aromas. It’s beginning to look a little tired now; where are the merits here? 14