Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great color; spicy, thoroughbred nose; exceptional substance; peppery tannins; tight texture; and a boatload of style. 17

Michael Schuster: Dense, minerally nose; rich, concentrated wine with a juicily ripe fruit within a firm tannin; elegant, complex, close-grained to taste, with a lovely, appetizing acidity and excellent aromatic length. Fine, complete St-Pierre, with both matter and class. 2016–28. 16/16.5+