Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: An obvious change in style here: a more classical nose, with notes of blackberry and raspberry fruit; oak flavors tending more toward spice than vanilla; generous, palpable flesh and a tauter palate. As seductive as ever, but better built, on a firmer tannic base than recent vintages. All round excellent! 17

Michael Schuster: Light, red fruit and cedar-oak nose; crisp, finely tannic, slender, elegant middleweight with a fresh, ripe red-fruit flavor, gently minerally aromas and with good, gentle, fruit-scented length. Less plump but noticeably more stylish and refined than usual. Very nice. 2015–28. 15.5/16