Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Blue-chip Margaux: very delicate but neither watery nor austere, with an exquisite, mentholated aftertaste that seems far more harmonious than a good many classed growths! One to watch when bottled. 16

Michael Schuster: Very ripe to smell; firm, fairly concentrated middleweight; a good core of crisply, sweetly ripe Cabernet fruit and very nice, scented length; harmonious, sapid, mineral-fresh Margaux. Another lovely medium to long-term wine from Ben Sichel. 2015–28. 15/16