Simon Field: Medium color, nose gently perfumed; hints of salt and potpourri. Palate has plenty of spirit and grip and an almost whisky-like structure. A little burn on the finish, but a pleasingly unusual example overall. 16

Richard Mayson: Amber-tawny center, olive-green tinged rim. Quite subdued on the nose, with underlying richness and intensity. Very fresh and delicate, and quite dry in style for a 30-year-old. Gentle finish. Fine and well balanced. 17

Margaret Rand: Dried fruit and citrus peel, cream and syrup. A good finish, with length and power. Pleasant, but it won’t set the world alight. 14