Simon Field: Hints of green on the rim, then a slightly caramelized nose. Palate rich and impressively sweet. An attractive, more commercial style, if that’s not a contradiction. 15

Richard Mayson: Mid amber-mahogany; thin green-tinged rim. Similarly rich in style, sweet, demerara sugar; wonderful texture but without the complexity of some. Full, yet fresh, spicy length of flavor. Very satisfying 30-year-old Tawny. 16

Margaret Rand: Smoky and nutty and characterful; at last, a 30-year-old with character and style. Complex and elegant and witty: a wine that brings something to the conversation. 15.5