Simon Field: Generous Oloroso coloring. A powerful nose, gently torrefied. Palate firm and intense: Seville oranges, incense, and bonfires. Incredibly taut and toned, given its age. A complete wine that will continue to mature gracefully for a long time. 18

Richard Mayson: Mid amber-mahogany. Quite subdued on the nose, hint of toffee; milk-chocolate richness and intensity, quite rich initially, with a slightly austere finish. Quite well balanced, nonetheless. 15

Margaret Rand: Coffee and spice with a finish of citrus peel. Very vivid and lively—a touch of raisins; impressive, deep, and very rich, leading to a big finish. 17