John Gilman: Château Cantemerle has been on a tear since the turn of the century and is really making some of the most exciting wines on the entire Left Bank these days. The 2010, which weighs in at a most judicious 13.5% ABV, was raised in 40% new oak. The result is a stellar 2010 that jumps from the glass in a deep, pure, and very classy melange of cassis, sweet dark berries, espresso, cigar ash, gravelly soil tones, and a deft framing of cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied, and gloriously pure and soil-driven for the vintage, with a superb core of fruit, great focus and balance, and a very long, suave, and ripely tannic finish. Château Cantemerle has a very sure hand at the rudder these days and is currently fashioning the greatest wines in the history of this venerable estate. A very exciting 2010, Cantemerle will need to be cellared a solid decade before broaching. 2021–60. 17.5