Andrew Jefford: A slightly lighter ebony than its peers. Harmonious, sweet, and warm, and beautifully shepherded through what has presumably been a very long maturation period. There is still an orange-blossom floral freshness at the very end of everything. Chocolate, caramel, and syrup of raisins also play their role. Huge sweet charm, but time has brought complexity. Rich, deep, and figgy on the palate, with some perfume at the very end. Tangy and lush, but complex and harmonious, too. A taste of solar force. Beautifully blended and composed, and as ever, those bitter, licorice, and burned notes on the end are supremely welcome. Orange makes an appearance at the end, too. This is perhaps the most grown-up and complex of this small subset in our tasting, though [Campbells Isabella Topaque] pips it on the aromatic front 17.5

Richard Mayson: Deep red-tinged mahogany, thin olivegreen rim; heavily scented, very rich, some treacle but lifted; rich, intense, but with a deftness and lightness of touch that is almost refreshing in this context. Savorysweet depth, which shows some poise and finesse on the finish. Still a one-glass wine but a very, very good one-glass wine. Liqueur Tokay as was? 18.5 Jancis Robinson: Dark brownish orange. Very rancio. Lively macerated raisins flavors, with a hint of Fisherman’s Friend (original flavor). Dry finish. Well made—and matured. Very long, with a hint of rose petals. Drink 2000–2020 18.