Neal Martin: An extraordinarily deep color. The bouquet is initially reticent but then unfurls rapidly to reveal a rambunctious perfume of ripe black plum, melted dark Valrhona chocolate, a touch of black truffle, and crème de cassis. The ravishing aromatic profile is almost unnaturally youthful and barely shows its age. The palate is full-bodied, dense, and tannic: black fruit infused with licorice and a touch of star anise, gripping like an industrial vice and refusing to relinquish its hold. Powerful, sinewy, and insistent, with a grainy texture on the finish, this indomitable Sassicaia is certainly sui generis, yet I would prefer to drink the ’88 rather than step back and admire the ’85. 18