Neal Martin: The nose unfurls nicely in the glass, with raspberry, black olive, scorched leather, loganberry, and a touch of spice, then blossoms after ten minutes with a saline tincture. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins, spicy on the entry, with tarry black fruits and white pepper. At the moment, the 2007 is a little starched and needs time to loosen up, but it mellows in the glass to reveal an irresistible velutinous finish. Wonderful. 18