Neal Martin: The 1988 Sassicaia retains its spellbinding bouquet; pure black plum, tobacco, melted tar, and licorice demonstrating thrilling definition and life-affirming vigor. The palate is medium-bodied, with a beguiling sense of symmetry: a perfect balance between austerity and Tuscan voluptuousness, which complement each other rather than canceling each other out. Crushed stones, a touch of black pepper, burned toast, very fresh on the Graves-like finish; this is Sassicaia in excelsis. 18.5